Dessert wine hits the spot

WINE OF THE WEEK: Graham 10-year Tawny Port ($34.50)

Sure, the 20-Year Graham is a bit more complex, but it also costs $56, making the wine aged 10 years the top value in a superb collection of tawnies from Dow, Graham and Smith Woodhouse — represented by Premium Port Works of San Francisco.

This medium-sweet dessert wine from Oporto, Portugal, offers lingering flavors of caramel, orange, honey, lemon and Asian spices such as clove and nutmeg. It's semi-sacrilegious, but folks have been known to serve tawny port over ice in summer. Traditionalists serve with apple pie and nuts.

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